Posts Tagged ‘photo technique’

Macro Photography - Technique & Equipment

Thursday, September 2nd, 2010

Macro photography has developed into a hobby (or profession) for numerous photographers in the previous handful of years because of to better quality equipment obtainable at reasonable prices. This posting was originally published on my Nature and Travel Photography web site and shares my thoughts regarding what to purchase if you are interested in shooting macro photos. I recommend the The 123 Digital Imaging Suite for additional information, a FREE sample is available.

Macro Photography Equipment

* dedicated macro lenses

* extension tubes or bellows units

* reversing rings

* close up lenses and

* macro zooms (that are pushing the limit of what we are talking about)

Dedicated macro lenses are the ultimate way to go if you are serious at all about doing this style of work. It does not have to end up being pricey, I bought a fantastic 50mm Sigma Macro lens used for all of $120 (new about $270) and it really is tack sharp and produces amazing images. My main macro lens is a Sigma 150mm Macro and cost a whopping $700, the best money I have ever spent. This presents you an idea about the price range available and the sky’s the limit with some highly specialized Nikon macro lenses in the $1,600 range. Why the difference in focal lengths? I’ll get to that soon in another article that I’m working on! If you are serious about macro photography purchasing a lens specifically created for the purpose is the best way to go. The lens designs are generally optimized for close focusing and the lenses are also generally flat field (focus in a flat plane) producing crisper corners on flat objects such as pieces of timber or slabs of rock. Flat field may be a term that many have not heard of and I’ll elaborate in the future on this as well.

Extension tubes or bellows units are pieces of gear that put space between the camera body and the lens thus allowing the lens to focus closer. They can work well with certain lenses, for example, if you have a 50mm prime lens this may well be a great option to get into macro work at an reasonable cost. Extension tubes often come in sets of 3 of different lengths (high quality tubes tend to be sold individually) that can be employed singly or combined to get the close focusing distance required. Bellows units work on the same principle but are expandable like a “bellows” allowing a good deal of flexibility. The real downside is the expenditure and they are bulky and heavy as well. I expect most individuals use bellows units for studio work only as they aren’t terribly practical in the field. One area where extension tubes really shine is for helping to make long focal length camera lenses such as a 400mmfocus closer, great for photographing skittish dragonflies and other critters.

Close up lenses are transparent “filters” that screw onto the front of your lens permitting the lens to focus nearer. Quality varies from mediocre to quite acceptable dependent on the quality of the filters. This is likely the least expensive way to start shooting macro photos but does have its drawbacks. A huge factor that has to be looked at is the quality of the camera lens you will be using. Inexpensive zoom lenses will most likely produce less than stellar results while high quality prime lenses can produce excellent results but none of these will produce tack sharp results like the dedicated macro lenses. The biggest advantage? As these are just fancy filters they are very light, no extra tubes or additional lenses to bring.

You don’t hear much about reversing rings anymore and I expect that’s because most people are using zoom lenses that likely wouldn’t work very well. Reversing rings make it possible for you to install a lens “backwards” on the camera body. When employed with great quality primary lens the results can be beautiful and if you reverse a wide angle lens usually you can accomplish a high magnifications on the order of 2x or more. For individuals fascinated in substantial magnification shooting this is frequently the way to use, particularly if you happen to be on a spending budget.

What about the macro zoom lens that you presently possess? Several of the brand-new lenses that are provided as acomponent of a kit are labeled as macro zooms and although they do focus a bit closer than normal they are definitely not true macro lenses. My past experiences has been that almost all of them are extremely questionable in terms associated with sharpness because these types of lenses are not specially designed for this sort of job application. Of course in a pinch they will function but to get in truly close to your subject one of the above options would be best.

What are you presently using? Are you thrilled with the results?

Airborne Photography : Which Style Of Aircraft Should You Utilize?

Wednesday, July 7th, 2010

Aerial photography can be as challenging as it can get for the pro photographer. Numerous choices are necessary to get stunning results, everything from type of aircraft to subject material and time of day. Working together is also essential as the photographer and pilot need to communicate effectively in order for the photographer to obtain the sought after pictures. This post covers aerial photography platforms with a modest volume of photography technical data. Part two will give you the technical and creative facet of aerial photography.

While aerial photography has been attained with everything from hot air balloons to space shuttles for many of us we’re somewhat limited in the options we have available. I have used helicopters, fixed wing airplanes and ultralights for my work and I’ll deal with these in a little more depth in my individual order of preference.

Helicopters:

Aerial photography from helicopters is probably the easiest platform to work from under most circumstances. When used especially for photography the majority of pilots will allow the removal of a door providing a large workable shooting area available. This can be very advantages since you can literally pan the cameras to maintain the subject within your frame while continually travelling in a straight forward direction. Helicopters also provide very impressive turning characteristics so you will find that there’s far less lost time while you circle back to shoot from a alternative altitude or perspective.

There are several downsides to shooting from helicopters however. Firstly is the major cost, very easily $500 per hour or so for a Robinson R22 to $1,500 or even more for a large jet. It’s very impressive the amount you can shoot in a few hours but the bank card can take a big hit once you land. Do you really need a jet helicopter for the majority of uses? I have utilized both the smaller Robinson’s and large jet helicopters and have had excellent results with each. Some will argue that the larger helicopters may be a little less dangerous but I will leave that up to the experts. Jet helicopters tend to be considerably quicker so if you are travelling significant distances they can provide an advantage. Secondly, vibrations can be an issue depending on a number of factors. My personal experience has been that a good pilot can often hit a “sweet spot” where the helicopter settles into a relatively smooth forward motion. This generally isn’t when you hover, forward movement plays a part.

Helicopter photography from a technical standpoint may be both a challenge and an exhilarating experience. If you cannot remove the doors wear darkish clothing and make sure you have a lens shade installed. Most of the windows are Plexiglas and are apt to have scratches so you will probably want to shoot relatively wide open to restrict the depth of field. Window tint may additionally be a problem although this can usually be cleaned up in Photoshop or some other editor. I suggest shooting RAW for this reason. Whatever you do, don’t place any part of your body or camera against the sides of the helicopter because the vibration will transfer to the camera and cause unsharp photos. Life is easier without doors but be aware of the turbulence in the event you lean out a little too far. The buffeting can be quite strong. All gear and other equipment needs to be safely and securely attached to your body or a harness, you don’t want to think about what could occur should you drop a lens or camera out of the door! I go as far as taping the lens hood to the lens as a safety precaution as I’m sure the tail rotors would likely make quick work of a lost lens hood, perhaps with negative consequences. If possible use a few different cameras so you can keep switching lenses and memory cards down to a minimum.

I try to keep my shutter speeds close to 1/1000 or faster if at all possible but have had reasonable success around 1/500. If this means boosting the ISO as the light fades I do this in preference to having somewhat blurred images. This should permit an aperture around f5.6 in most circumstances although as the light fades you may be looking at f2.8 or so, a good reason to own fast lenses.

Ultralight:

When i first did airborne photography from an ultralight in Costa Rica a few years back. I have to disclose I really did not know what to anticipate because all my prior aerial photography had been performed from helicopters up to that point. I was expecting a large amount of vibration as well as bad wind buffeting but was in for a shock. Ultralights are actually a fantastic aerial photography platform under the right conditions which is when you normally fly them anyway. They do get thrown around slightly but generally the vibrations are not as bad as helicopters. Although they aren’t as maneuverable as helicopters they are better than fixed wing airplanes. Perhaps the only disadvantages are, they’re somewhat slow and you’ve got to feel comfortable in them as they are extremely bare bones and seat of the pants!

Fixed wing aircraft:

Likely the majority of aerial photography is done with fixed wing aircraft. While not as maneuverable as helicopters they’re still very competent shooting platforms within the correct conditions. Make an effort to get an plane having a high wing such as the Cessna 172 Skyhawk to obtain the best view. The low winged airplanes definitely limit the view below! Even with high wings the wing strut will probably be in the way, it’s just not generally located in a good position for photography. I am sure some photographers fly with the doors off but in general you will end up flying either shooting through the small opening window or perhaps through the glass. In either case, positioning of the aircraft is extremely critical to set up the image so a superb pilot preferably with experience working with photographers is a must. What is the biggest benefit of a fixed wing platform? Cost! Probably 1/4 or even less of what the helicopter will cost.

Getting organized:

Flying in circles searching for photos could possibly be very exciting and entertaining until you land and find out how much money you spent without really achieving anything. Do your research beforehand and obtain a good concept about what you want to photograph and the way you’ll accomplish it. What side of the plane will you be shooting from? What altitude or various altitudes are needed? When will the light be the best? Frequently you’ll find that one flight won’t generate all the necessary images due to a few of these decisions and a second or third flight might be necessary.

After you have performed your research it’s time to find your aircraft. What is your price range is likely the largest decision here as well as which kind of aircraft are available? Hire a good pilot, ideally one that has experience working with photographers! Pilots do vary and some are much better than others in terms of understanding the requirements of aerial photography. Review a flight plan and stay with it. The most essential part of the shoot is the pilot calls the shots and has the final say in what is going to be done. They understand the rules, safety issues and the bottom line; they are responsible for you, the aircraft and the individuals on the ground!

Happy shooting!

Kevin Oke is a professional aerial photographer living on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada.